The year 2022 witnessed several significant runway presentations from Yves Saint Laurent, showcasing the brand's enduring legacy while simultaneously forging a bold path into the future. Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director, consistently delivered collections that were both evocative of the house's rich history and strikingly contemporary. This article delves into the key elements of the YSL 2022 runway shows, focusing on the Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection and touching upon the Fall 2022 presentation, examining the runway looks, beauty choices, model casting, and critical reception.
Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2022: A Study in Architectural Drapery
The Saint Laurent Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection, presented during Paris Fashion Week, was a masterclass in tailoring and sculptural silhouettes. Vaccarello, known for his sharp, often minimalist aesthetic, took a surprising turn, drawing inspiration from the Yves Saint Laurent archives. He unearthed 1980s dresses, meticulously studying their construction and the unique way the fabric was manipulated. This archival research translated into the runway looks as a series of breathtakingly intricate gowns and suits. The collection was a testament to the enduring power of the house's legacy, reinterpreted through a modern lens.
The couture-like folds and twists of fabric became the defining characteristic of the collection. Instead of relying on embellishments or excessive detailing, Vaccarello focused on the inherent drama of the fabric itself. The dresses, often floor-length and elegantly simple in their overall form, possessed an undeniable architectural quality. The way the fabric was draped, twisted, and folded created a sense of movement and fluidity, even when the models stood still. This emphasis on the artistry of construction was a bold statement, showcasing the incredible skill of the Saint Laurent ateliers.
The colour palette was predominantly monochromatic, with shades of black, white, and grey dominating the runway. This restrained colour scheme further emphasized the intricate detailing of the garments. However, pops of vibrant colour were strategically introduced, providing a striking contrast to the overall muted tones. These pops of colour, usually seen in accessories or smaller details, added a touch of unexpected energy to the collection.
The tailoring in the collection was impeccable. The sharp lines of the jackets and trousers were juxtaposed against the fluid, almost ethereal quality of the dresses. This contrast created a fascinating tension, highlighting the versatility of the Saint Laurent aesthetic. The collection effortlessly transitioned between powerful, assertive pieces and more romantic, flowing garments, showcasing the multifaceted nature of the modern woman.
The models chosen for the Spring 2022 show were a diverse group, reflecting the inclusive vision of the brand. Their individual personalities and unique styles added another layer of complexity to the collection, enhancing the overall impact of the presentation. The casting reflected a conscious effort to move beyond traditional beauty standards, celebrating a wider range of body types and ethnicities.
Critical reception to the Spring 2022 collection was largely positive. Many reviewers praised the masterful tailoring, the innovative use of fabric, and the overall sophisticated aesthetic. The collection was seen as a departure from some of Vaccarello's previous, more overtly glamorous collections, but this shift was generally welcomed as a sign of his continued evolution as a designer. The collection was lauded for its timeless elegance and its ability to transcend fleeting trends.
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